Tuesday, January 22, 2008

In Praise of Braising

Licking my wounds for failing to have a deep understanding of the quality (flavour intensity) of an ingredient, which I am given to understand makes the difference between an a pretty good cook and one who never fails, I have looked for guidance. I found Daniel Boulard's Letters to a Young Chef.

Intended for those who have recently graduated from cooking school and are embarking on a cooking career, it is equally insightful advice on the most important aspects of the art of cooking. What is said in this series of "letters" are concise and eloquent reminders of what some of my OOTC colleagues have said all along.

For instance, in his chapter entitled "Mentors", Boulard says "So my strong advice to you, which I learned from a three-star Michelin chef, is "Remember your grandmother's food!" Grandmother is a short way of saying, remember the foods that connect you to your region, your family, your culture".

I understand this not as a command to serve comfort food, but instead sound advice to develop a deep understanding of your family (the guests) and the regional ingredients seasonably available. This way you can trigger the Proustian memories of favorite childhood dishes even with innovative interpretations of a classic dish.

By the chapter "The Trinity of Heat", I was convinced Boulard was writing with the OOTC predominantly braising-based main course food preparation in mind. The practical limitation of not having a sauté line, became a blessing when I read Boulard's insight "To me, braising is the deep soul of French cooking...Braising reveals the beauty and depth - both historical and cultural - of French cooking".

I promise to remember his braising advice:

- it is not stewing
- a properly braised piece of meat has just enough liquid for serving and no more
- basting is very important
- braising requires constant attention

I highly recommend this book to volunteers at OOTC who are new either to this type of food preparation or cooking in the quantities we do each week. Like the advice of my mentors at OOTC, this little book helps to create the understanding of cooking that makes it satisfying for you and the guests.

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